Before we begin, you’ll need to collect the following items:

1. 1 Carport Kit (from Costco) – 10′x20′ with 11′ peak – metal tubular frame carport

From your Nursery:

1. 100′ roll of clear greenhouse plastic sheeting (6 mil thickness)
2. 100′ roll of weed fabric (huh huh) aka landscape weed blocking fabric
3. 100 Landscaping staples 6″ – 8″ long (approx)
4. 6 12″-16″ Earth Anchors (for tying off your corners)
5. 100 ft braided nylon rope (make it easy to see if you can, so you don’t trip or clothesline yourself)
6. 40′ of 2×3 12′ douglas fir stock (yes they make that now)
7. 12 – 14 4″ spring clamps (refer to photo)
8. 3 Concrete foundation blocks (refer to photo – center of greenhouse on the ground)
9. 4 16″ Oscillating fans (wall-mount)
10. 3-4 long extension cords
11. 1-3 dehumidifiers (if needed, depends on local climate)
12. 2-4 600 watt lights (we recommend Eurotwins)
13. 1 Hi-Low meter (hi-lo temp/humidity monitor)
14. 3 Surge-protector power strips
15. 10′ x 20′ of panda (black on white) visqueen (6 mil)
16. 4 8′ tarp zippers (you get those pre-made these days at your home-improvement center)
17. 10 Masonry blocks (see back of photo… holding down panda visqueen)
18. 1 big can of multi-sized zip ties
19. 3 rolls of Greenhouse Tape (6″ wide clear)
20. 1 axial outtake fan
21. 1 can of bungee cords
22. 1 extra 50′ run of nylon braided rope (for the lights)

Ok… now for the tool list… you will need:

1. Screw gun
2. Hand saw (for the wood)
3. Hammer (for the landscape staples)
4. Measuring Tape
5. Razor Knife
6. 1-2 8′ ladders (6′ will do but 8′ is safer)
7. Compass (if needed… just stand on your property and see where the sun rises – that’s east… so just figure the rest of the directions out from there, yeah you’ll have to wake up early)

Ok, now we begin…

Step 1 – Install Black Landscape Fabric

Roll out bolts of landscape fabric east to west, in 30 foot runs. Staple the first run down every 2-3 feet as you roll it out, keeping it taught. After the first run, successive runs should be overlapping each other by 12″. The material has a line layed 12″ from the edge to make this easy for you. Do this over a 30′-20′ area (approx) to ensure a spacious and clean, contaminant-free grow environment. When you are finished you should have a rectangular area of black landscape fabric 30′x20′ made of overlapping rows.

Step 2 – Construct Carport Kit

The carport frame (now a greenhouse frame) comes with good directions. It all clicks together like the family tent. Just follow the directions and you’ll have it up in no time. Make sure it is centered on your 30′x20′ area oriented longways east to west (use your compass if needed) and as level as possible. When the frame is complete, attach the included fabric on the north wall only… you won’t be using the rest… store it for later.

Step 3 – Cover it with the Clear Greenhouse Plastic

This is best done with yourself and 2 assistants when the wind is not blowing. You’ll need your Razor Knife, your greenhouse tape (the 6″ wide clear stuff), your clear plastic sheeting and a half dozen of your 4″ spring clamps (refer to photo). The goal here is to cover the greenhouse without wasting material… you do it in three pieces:

1. The first piece is going to cover the east or west side (take your pick). Go ahead and measure and cut a piece of plastic that will cover the entire end side of the carport structure, overlapping the edges by about 4-6 inches (approx.) Attach these edges with a few clamps and trim excess material, leaving a clean 4-6 inch overlap. Use short (8″ or less) pieces of the 6″ wide clear greenhouse tape in 2 foot intervals to lock down the edges of the plastic to the greenhouse frame. When you are done, the entire end face of the greenhouse should be covered in a single piece of clear plastic that is taught like a drum (as much as possible). When it’s done, run one long strip of tape around the entire edge, making a clean and sealed seam.
2. Repeat the above step on opposite end. When you are done, you’ll have both ends covered with clear plastic, taped off and sealed.
3. Cut a 10′ x 20′ run of the 6 mil panda plastic. Attach this to the interior of your north wall with the white side facing the interior of the greenhouse. Tape and seal this off using the same technique as the clear plastic end caps, tight as possible. Use your 8 masonry blocks along the interior of the north wall to pin down your panda plastic.
4. Let’s attach the clear roof. Cut a 20′ x 22′ foot run of clear greenhouse plastic (the same stuff you used on your ends). Take 2 or 3 friends and your ladders and pull this large sheet of plastic over the top of the remaining structure. Orient the plastic so that the extra (the 22′ run) plastic overlaps the east and west edges of the greenhouse. On the north edge, the plastic will overlap the carport fabric by about 1 foot. It will be trimmed and taped off to the top metal bar of the north side. The east and west edges, all along the outside of the structure, get clamped, trimmed and taped in the same manner as the end pieces (refer to step 1 again).

Step 4 – Install 2×3 framing and blocks for structural support

Layout your foundation blocks with 1 in the dead center of your greenhouse and 1 centered on each of the west and east sides. Grab your 2×3 stock and notch one end of each stud. You’ll need to measure the distance between your cement foundation blocks and the peak of your greenhouse (including the width of the tubes… you’ll notch to allow for the tube). Make sure you make your notches so the wood doesn’t poke through or rub the plastic. Drill pilot holes and attach the studs to your foundation blocks with 3″ deck screws. 3 – 4 screws will do it. We’ll put a screw in each side of the top of each stud to create anchors for zip ties to attach to (refer to photo). When you are done, you’ll have 3 foundation blocks with studs attached that reach to the roof of the carport, which now rests in the notches on the top ends of the studs.

Step 5 – Install Earth Anchors

Put your 4 earth anchors in the ground 4-6 feet from each corner, spaced diagonally from the corner. Make sure they go all the way in… 12 to 16 inches. On the north wall, we’ll add two more to the exterior of the green house, again, spaced 4-6 feet away from the edge of the greenhouse, evenly spaced from the existing corner anchors. Cut 6 approx 15 foot long pieces of rope. Take 4 of the pieces and tie one of each to each of the four exterior corners of the greenhouse, tying the other end to the corresponding earth anchor, using a trucker’s hitch knot (here’s a link). You’ll need to cut a couple of tiny holes in your plastic in order to do this, but it’s worth it when the wind picks up. Make sure these tie offs are tight. Cover the holes you made with extra greenhouse tape.

Step 6 – Zipper Doors

Zipper Doors

The zippers will come with instructions for installation, and you can refer to our photos. You’ll tape the zippers up, evenly spaced on each of the east and west sides. You’ll be putting 2 on each end. After cutting the strip for the tape you’ll want to staple it using your hand stapler about every 6 inches. Refer to the photos.

Step 7 – Install Fans

Outtake Fan

Mount your fans on the east and west studs facing the interior of the green house, about 7′ up. Refer to the manufacturer instructions and our photos for mounting the fans. It’s really easy. Install the 10″ Axial outtake fan. Cut a 9 inch “x” in the material that the outtake fan will be inserted in and taped to. Put a couple of eye-bolts in a piece of wood screwed to the neighboring stud. The weight of the fan is then supported by a bungie cord hanging from the eye-bolts. Refer to the photo for exact installation details.

Step 8 – Install Dehumidifier and Lights

Place the 1 to 3 dehumidifiers evenly throughout the greenhouse according to humidity. Attach 1 bungie cord to each light by hooking the ends of the bungie cord to the hooks provided on the light shell. Tie an 8′ piece of rope around the center of the bungie cord and mount it to the top of tube. Evenly space your lights along peak of the greenhouse. Put your ballasts and dehumidifiers above ground, using masonry blocks to keep them dry.

Step 9 – Running power to your greenhouse

Power Station

Step 10 – Wrap it up and Clean it Up

Clean up your scrap, test your lights and fans, and troubleshoot any problems. Let it all run for a few hours without anything in it and determine that your power situation is stable and reliable. Once you are done, sweep it out nice and clean, wipe down any plastic that got dirty in the process, and get ready to move in your ladies!

There is a new movement entering the lives of farmers that will change the marijuana growing scene forever. Seeds will sprout faster, cuttings mature faster, and plants will be healthier and stronger. Best of all, buds will be ready sooner, they will be heftier, danker, sweeter, and the smoking will be stellar. This is not some fancy new light set up, some secret soil mix, or some expensive fertilizer. This information is free, 100% organic, and available to all.

Using the cycles of the moon and the placement of the planets as a guide to daily garden activities is something that was done by farmers from the advent of agriculture right up until it was replaced by machines during the industrialization revolution. But thanks to a few soldiers and scientists the methods are not forgotten, and today farmers wishing to connect with their roots are employing these ancient techniques and acts of wisdom.

To get an idea of how this all works, we will begin with what we already know. We know that the moon greatly affects the tides of the ocean. Scientists have studied animals such as mussels and fish that respond directly to the phases of the moon as well. We also know that more babies are born on or right before the full moon than at any other time.

Now notice the cycle of the moon in comparison to the life cycle of a plant, the moon is new, a seed is sown. The moon is waxing, the roots and leaves of the plant grow. The moon is full, the plant flowers. The moon wanes, the plant dies and goes to seed. What is the tie that binds activities on earth with the phases of the moon? Gravity, light, and magnetism. The following examples illuminate these three properties. When the moon is new, the gravitational pull is high. Many people plant seeds during the new moon because the water inside the seed feels the tidal pull and the sprout bursts forth more readily. When more light is available, when the moon is waxing, leaf growth increases (this would be a good time to veg. your crop). Magnetism is high during a full moon which speeds up the enzyme system in plants causing ripening (this would be a good time to put your ladies into flower).

The moon is not the only celestial element to effect your marijuana garden. All of the planets, have electromagnetic forces that, when combined with the powerful moon, affect fertility, growth, harvest time, etc. The planets, represented by the signs of the zodiac will be elaborated on more later. It should be noted that astrology is the forefather of astronomy. To get started, it is a good idea to be aware of the basic elements of the lunaic cycle. The moon completes one cycle approximately every twenty eight days. Within that cycle are four quarters. The first quarter consists of the new moon, which grows in light and pull (waxes). After seven days, the second quarter begins, which consists of more waxing and pull, culminating seven more days later as a full moon. The third quarter begins with the moons’ light and gravitational pull decreasing (waning) each night. The fourth and final quarter of the moon, the days twenty one through twenty eight in the cycle consist of more waning and reduction of the moons’ light. When applying the 12 zodiac positions to the lunaic cycle, the moon passes through one planet every few days. By forming activities around appropriate times in the moon cycle, and elements of the zodiac position the moon is traveling through, you should experience pleasing results.

Activities for each quarter of the moon

First Quarter: A few days before the new moon, but not on it, plant seeds. Leaf and root growth is well balanced at this time. Water in the soil is feeling the pull and feeding the roots, you won’t have to water as heavily.

Second Quarter: The increase in light brings about more leaf growth and less root growth. Overall, this is a fertile time and everything should be growing nicely. A few days before the moon is full, it is time to take cuttings, transplant, go into flower, or harvest (on the full moon).

Third Quarter: While the light is still bright, but beginning to wane, root growth is steady, leaf growth decreases. That is why transplanting is done prior to the third quarter to ensure the roots take hold.

Fourth Quarter: The last leg of the moons’ journey occurs now. As the light wanes, it is time for you and your ganja to rest. Activities during this time include; thinning out leaves that are yellowing or blocking the flow of light, and employing pest management (organically of course).

What to do (or not do) when the moon is in each sign

A good rule of thumb is that if the sign is masculine, it is generally not a fertile time. If the sign is feminine, it is a time to plant, transplant, etc. Signs with the elements air and fire are masculine. Signs with the elements water and earth are feminine.

• Aries: a fire sign, dry and masculine. This is not a fertile sign. Now is a good time to remove pests such as mites and powdery mildew.
• Taurus: an earth sign, moist and feminine. Use for planting crops when hardiness is a factor.
• Gemini: an air sing, dry and masculine. Now is a good time to remove unwanted leaf growth. May also be an ok time to harvest.
• Cancer: a water sign, moist and feminine. This is a very fertile time, the best time for for planting seeds.
• Leo: a fire sign, dry and masculine. This is the most barren of all signs, but a great time to harvest.
• Virgo: an earth sign, moist and feminine. It is fine to cultivate and plant when the moon passes through.
• Libra: an air sign, semi dry and masculine. This time is of relative balance. Although it is a masculine sign, it is ok to plant flowering plants like cannabis.
• Scorpio: a water sign, moist and feminine. Like Cancer, this is a very productive sign. Scorpio brings sturdiness to plants.
• Sagittarius: a fire sign, dry and masculine. This sign is barren, and it is good for harvesting and cultivating.
• Capricorn: an earth sign, moist and feminine. Not as moist as Taurus, but ok for planting.
• Aquarius: an air sign, dry and masculine. Like Aries, this is a good time to remove pests organically.
• Pisces: a water sign, moist and feminine. During this watery time, it is good to plant seeds, take cuttings, and to transplant.

If you are further interested in gardening by the moon, research books on biodynamics and astrology, peruse the Internet, and purchase a calendar that shows the various stages of the moon. Keep track of your activities in the garden and note the results. With time and patience, don’t forget to have fun too, your marijuana plants will be shining like stars!

Sources:

• Growing By the Stars http://plantsandplanets.com
• Giampi, Pam. Gardening by the Light of the Moon. Press-Tige, New York, 1998.
• Jeavons, John. How To Grow More Vegetables. “A Primer on the Life-Giving Biodynamic/French Intensive Method of Organic Horticulture.” Ten Speed Press, Berkley CA, 1982.
• Riotte, Louise. Planetary Planting. “A Guide to Organic Gardening by the Signs of the Zodiac.” Simon and Schuster, New York, 1975.
• Schilthuis, Willy. Biodynamic Agriculture. “Rudolph Steiner’s Ideas In Practice.” Anthroposophic Press, NY, 1994.

So when you have your mothers ready, get yourself set up at a table with the following accoutrements. A comfortable chair, a good light source above you, and a few joints already rolled for when you take a break. You will also need, a pack of brand new, sterilized razor blades (one should last for fifty to one hundred cuttings). Also have before you a sterilized cutting board, clonin’ sauce, also known as root stimulator, and a vase of water. In addition, have your sterilized trays set up with perlite or soil and Oasis clonin’ cubes. Fifty cubes per tray is good. And last but not least, turn your music on so you and the babes can groove with a niceness while workin’ away.

First water the trays and empty cubes with a very light nutrient solution. Flood the tray, then dump out the excess water, leaving the tray, cubes and soil soakin’ wet.

Now go to your mother plant and choose with your keen stony eyes, the branches to cut that will make good plants. Obviously choose ones that are not hurtin’ or deformed in any way. Cut off enough to keep your mother alive and healthy, but cut enough to make plenty of clones in case some don’t make it. Put everything you cut into the vase, so the stems and leaves remain at optimal hydration.

Now to have your medical marijuana clones grow successfully, you must have a steady, and firm stroke to your cut. Choose your branch, individually from the vase. The best clones grow from a branch that has three to five bladed leaves. Holding the stem firmly to the cutting board, take a brand new razor blade and slice firmly, and (this is the key here) at a 45° angle. The more surface area on your cut stem, the more space for roots to grow forth from, and of course the more likely you will one day have a big mature plant on your hands producing mad fat kolas. Now dip the cut end of the piece about one full inch into the clonin’ sauce. Then push ‘er about one half of an inch into the clonin’ cube gently, but with enough force to keep the little newborn from floppin’ over. Brevity and mindfulness make good babies.

Now do this until the whole tray is full. Then water the tray with a lukewarm 68F, (super) mildly fertilized solution. Fill the tray about halfway full with this water, and then put the tray under fluorescent lights. Generally the plants should be about four inches away from the lights. If they are farther away, or if the room is cold, purchase some warming mats to put underneath the cloning trays. Also you can get yourself some little greenhouse lids, plastic domes to go over the clonin’ trays. These keep the babies warm and moist.

Now the clones should be kept at about degrees and humidity. Check on them every twelve hours for the first three days. At times, lift the lids to let them breathe. Also, lift the trays to see if they need water, and if they are light, water gently. I fill the tray with water two times a day for seven days. On days three to five, check for signs of rootin’, you may see little white hairs, about twice the width of dental floss peekin’ up through the holes, or through the bottom or sides of the cubes. Once you see the roots, let them grow a little, a few more days.

When nearly all of the cubes have rooted, and you’ve thrown out the wilty ones that didn’t make it, get your four to six inch pots halfway filled with your organic soil mix. Break off a cube at a time gently; the roots tend to intertwine with one another (by flooding the tray when watering, you can prevent too much of this). Lovingly place the cube into the pot, and then hand fill soil all around. Then water with a warm nutrient solution, compacting the soil just enough, then place on your grow table under H.I.D. lights (high intensity discharge), and there you have it, successful asexual reproduction!